February 19, 2015

Hi-Low Bow Top + Tutorial

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The Project Run and Play sew along this month is the Mademoiselle Muscle Tee from Living With Punks. It's a size 5, so I originally intended it to be for my middle daughter, but when I tried it on her, it was way too big. Good thing I have more than one daughter.

For my adaptation, I made a high-low hem and then added a yoke to the back, so that I could gather the back for added fullness. And just for fun, I added a bow. I whipped up some cuffed shorts from a Simplicity pattern.

This fabric was a giant pain to work with. I got it before I knew to pay attention to the weight when buying fabric online, and it's so lightweight and flimsy that it was really tricky to keep the stripes where I wanted them. So I gave up. She doesn't care yet. Also, the shoulders looked like they were going to be really wide, so rather than add the binding, I just basted, turned them under, and hemmed them. The fabric didn't like that at all. Yes, I'm totally blaming the fabric. Because it couldn't have been my fault, haha.

Here's how I adapted the free pattern to make the shirt. You could use the same techniques to adapt any shirt pattern.
First, draw a curved line on the front pattern piece. You want it to hit both sides at right angles. My line is pretty shaky; I smoothed it out when I cut.

Tape the cut piece from the front pattern piece to the back pattern piece. The wider section should be on the side that the fold is.

To make the gathered back and yoke, draw a straight line where you want the seam line to be. Then draw a seam allowance above and below.

Trace the yoke, adding the seam allowance.

Cut off the yoke along the top seam allowance piece. When you cut the gathered back out, place the pattern piece several inches away from the fold to create fullness to gather.

Gather and sew the back to the yoke. I added the bow into the seam allowance. To make it stand up (instead of flopping all over the place) I added interfacing to give it some stiffness.

Then just sew the shirt as you normally would.


Beth Cavanaugh said...

I love the look of the gather under the yoke--really feminizes the whole thing! Good job working with tricky fabric :)

Skirt Fixation said...

That bow...eeek! I have yet to master buying the right weight knits...but it's fun to keep trying!

Sara said...

I love this version of yours! The stripes, the yoke, the gathering, that bow!... {swooning} Amazing!

Simple Simon and Company said...

SO SO cute. Love the stripes and the bow!

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