January 16, 2012

Layers of Petals Pencil Skirt

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A while back I saw this dress at Shabby Apple and loved it.  When I came across this tutorial for making scalloped edges, I knew I had to give it a try.  I made a pencil skirt instead of a dress and ended up with this result.

I love how the layers and layers of scalloped edges look like layers of petals on a flower.

I made mine with a high waist.  I've been a little scared of high waists because I was afraid a high waist would emphasize the mommy-tummy. It ended up having the opposite effect, which made me really happy.  Hooray for high waists!

Click below if you want to make your own. {Just a warning, this is a little time intensive}.
I used about 3 yards of a stretchy bottom weight fabric.  You can use a fabric that isn't stretchy, but you'll have to add a zipper.

I used a cup to make my scallops. Instead of making a grid, I taped where I wanted the curve to begin and end.

Then I used a ruler to measure 2 inches up from the bottom of my paper to the tape on both sides of the cup.

I traced a scallop, then repeated the above step to get a row of scallops on my freezer paper.

Then I traced my original row of scallops onto 13 more strips of freezer paper to give me a total of 14 rows of scallops, making sure my scallops were straight.

Now for the fabric.  For the main part of the skirt, measure from your waist to your knee, adding extra length for seam allowances.  You'll need quite a bit at the bottom to account for the scallops.  This will give you the length of your skirt.  Measure around your hips at the widest part.  Add for seam allowances.  I also added a couple of extra inches so the skirt wouldn't be skin tight.  Half this measurement.  This will give you the width for your skirt.  Cut two rectangles using the length and width you just figured out.

Now cut 12 pieces of fabric the same width of your skirt.  Mine were about 9 inches long, but this will vary depending on the length of your skirt and the size of your scallops. Notice there are 2 fewer strips of fabric than there are scallops.  The other two scallops are for the bottom of the main pieces of fabric.

Now cut out the waistband. Double the height you want your waistband to be. I wanted a nice thick waistband, so mine is 10 inches high.  Measure your waist at the point where you want the waistband to sit and add seam allowances.  This will be the width of your waistband.

Now we're going to start the scallops. Since mine were a little less than 2 inches high, I folded my fabric over about 2 inches and pressed.  The fabric piece below is right side up and the folded part is showing the wrong side.

Then I ironed the freezer paper on.  I didn't cut on the scallop like the original tutorial.  This was a mistake.  Pulling the freezer paper off after sewing was awful.  Do NOT follow my example.

See where I'm stitching right on the freezer paper? Bad idea.  You should have cut on the line and then you'll be stitching next to the freezer paper.

So you'll have scallops like this, without the hassle of pulling the paper off.

Make sure you clip right to the stitching {but don't cut the actual stitching!} in between your scallops.

Turn it right side out and press.  I also folded the raw edge on the top over and pressed.  Do this for all 12 of your fabric strips and the bottom only of your two main pieces of fabric.

Line up your rows of scallops, using the bottom scalloped edge on the main piece of the skirt as a guide.  There should be your main skirt piece with the bottom scalloped edge, plus the 6 strips, for a total of 7 rows of scallops per side of your skirt.

I pinned along the main piece to show me where each row of scallops should go.  Then I pinned one row of scallops at a time and top stitched.

Press each row after stitching.

When you've done the front and back, they should look something like this.

Fold one piece of your skirt in half lengthwise and trim the top corner.  This will help lessen the bulk of the waist.  Do the same for the other piece.

Lay one piece on top of the other, right sides together.  Stitch one side seam ONLY.

Press your waistband in half lengthwise and stitch the short sides.  Clip your corners. Turn right side out and press.  Measure the length of your waistband.

You want the top piece of your skirt to be the same width as your waistband. Measure the length of your skirt as sewn.  Take the difference between the width of your skirt and the width of the waistband and divide it by four.  This number will be the width of each of four darts you'll need to add.  Add a dart by folding your skirt over where you want the dart to be and stitching a small diagonal line.  To keep it from puckering, stitch the last several stitches right on the fold.

When you're done, it should look something like this:

Now that the top of the skirt is the same width as the waist band, pin the raw edges of the waistband to the top of the skirt, as shown.  I stitched two rows of stitching, since my skirt was pretty heavy with all those rows of scallops!

Press the waistband up, as shown.  With right sides together, stitch the other side seam, adding a zipper if you need to.

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Bonnie MS said...

"Mommy-Tummy" I love it! That's what my 5 year old calls post baby weight. This skirt is really cute! Those scallops are so girly....I may have to try something scallopy myself :) Thank you for the inspiration dear! Hope your week is going wonderful.

Tricia said...

What a fun skirt, and doesn't it feel great to make something for you? Thanks for sharing the tutorial.

Anonymous said...

LUV your scallop skirt! Soooo creative and fun!
XOXO Valerie

(Found you on TipJunkie)

Melodee said...

what a darling skirt! I love it and I'm pinning this to my "to-sew" pin board!! love it:)

Sandra Barth said...

Thank you for the tutorial! A while ago I tried also to make a scalloped edge, but it was too small to be beautiful. And in your skirt you succeeded very good!

Emily said...

Wow! This is a fantastic skirt!! :)

Crystal said...

Awesome skirt and tutorial. I'm going to place a vote for yours. I predict a winner.

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