May 30, 2012

Oops-A-Daisy Dress

See my full disclosure policy here.

I took a trip to JoAnn's {rare-I live way too far away from one} and fell in love with this fabric. I think grey is rapidly becoming my favorite neutral. I love it paired with pretty much any bright color. Pink, for example. I bought it not really knowing what I was going to make, but knowing it would have to be something little because I didn't get that much fabric.

So I came up with the idea for this dress. It features a round collar in a coordinating fabric and a gathered body. It's a pretty simple dress, once you get the pattern made. But don't worry, I'll show you how to do that.

I paired it with some Ruffle Flower Leggings in a cropped length. If you decide to make a pair of these, especially in the cropped length, I recommend sewing the flowers on one at a time, and cutting and knotting the thread in between. That way, when the leggings stretch with movement, the flowers won't be pulling on each other.

I squeezed this onto 3/4 yard for the body of the dress. I would recommend using more if you're planning on making it for anyone bigger than a toddler. A quarter yard was plenty for the collar.

First, start by making the pattern. All you need is a dress {or shirt} with a round neckline. Trace the front neckline onto a piece of paper.

Trace the back neckline onto another piece.

Measure out from both ends and draw a straight line. I wanted my collar to be about an inch wide. I added a half inch for seam allowance on both sides, which gave me a total of two inches wide.

Use your ruler to draw dots around the original line, two inches from the line.

Here are the dots going all the way around.

Draw a line connecting the dots.

One side will be the button hole. I marked mine on the left. On the right, I added a seam allowance.

Now do the same for the back. Add the seam allowance on the left. {When you flip it around, the seam allowances will match up.}

Lay the back piece over the top piece. Seam allowance sides should overlap.

Trace over the curve of the front piece onto the back piece. If you can't see it through the paper, try holding it up to a window. This will add some length for your button{s}.

Now lay the front piece on top of the back piece and lengthen it slightly.

Optional: I found the collar flared a little when my daughter wore it. If you want to avoid the flare, you can try drawing a diagonal line on the seam allowance sides. Stitch along this line instead of the seam allowance line, and you should eliminate the flare. {Check the second picture, her left shoulder, to see what I'm talking about.}

Now for the body of the dress. I measured down about two inches from the shoulder of the dress I used as my pattern, then traced the rest of the arm hole and the side of the dress onto a piece of paper.

Extend the bodice as far as you want. The longer you extend it, the more gathered it will be. I cut mine on the fold. If you used a regular 8.5x11" piece of paper, you'll have to lengthen the dress past the end of the paper when you cut the fabric.

 Now that you have your pattern made, cut out the pieces. Cut two of the body on the fold, and two front collar pieces and two back collar pieces.

Sew your front and back collar pieces together at the seam allowance side, along the diagonal line if you choose. 

Open them up and lay them right sides together. You'll notice on the button side, they'll overlap. 

Stitch all the way around the inside of the circle and up the button sides. Clip corners and curves.

Turn right side out and press along the inside curve.

 Now press the outside raw edges under on the top and the bottom of the collar. You want them to line up as closely as possible.

Lay the front and back of the body of the dress right sides together. Stitch the body of the dress at the side seams.

Zig zag the bottom raw edge.

Hem the bottom. I used a double row of stitches.

Zig zag around the underarm. Press it under and stitch to finish the underarm.

 Sew a gathering stitch along the top front and top back of the dress.

Since I measured two inches down from the shoulder on the dress I used as my pattern, I also measured two inches down on the collar. Add a little extra for seam allowance and mark with a pin.

You'll have a total of four places marked with a pin. This is where you'll insert the front and back of the dress into the collar.

 Pin the front of the dress to the front collar. You should insert the dress in between the top and bottom layers of the collar.

Then pin the back of the dress into the back collar the same way.

Stitch along the outside edge of the collar all the way around, making sure you stitch through all layers. I kept going and topstitched around the inside of the collar as well.

Add your buttons and button holes.

And go have a fun time outside this summer!


Kerry said...

That length is so cute for a toddler.

Olyveoil said...

Totally cute! Thanks for the tutorial on this sweet little dress. At first, I thought you'd put a bit of lace on the collar above the shoulders until I read your reference to the little flare. I'm going to have to give this one a go, but in an adult size, I think.

Have an awesome day!


Jessica said...

Love the tutorial! Thanks for posting. Can I ask what fabric you used for the body of the dress? I love it!

Terra said...

It was a quilting fabric that I got at JoAnn's. I don't remember the name of it.

Meg O said...

Thank you so much for the tutorial on drawing up a yoke collar. I've been making these style of dresses and shirts for my daughter for years but the pattern was getting small. I prefer to know the basics of drawing up my own patterns than relying on printed patterns.

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